The Lion's Paw of Bangkok
The Japanese at the Guest House choose to loudly converse, well past one in the morning. I wake ahead of my alarm, set for 5:30, so that I can catch the airport bus. The flights are pleasant. I see the end of the movie, "The Incredibles," and read "Moneyball," a book about how my team, the Oakland Athletics, wins more games on a tighter budget than any other baseball team.
I arrive in Bangkok, not having planned where I will stay. This is a problem, as my entry form requires an address. The person behind the passport counter frowns and I ask where I should stay and what I should write. I don't understand her answer and she spells out "ROYAL" on a piece of paper.
At the airport, at the tourist information desk, I pick up pamphlets and maps and ask again where I should reserve a room. They send me one booth over. I say that I want to spend $20 per night on a room and to stay for two nights. (I've heard that good rooms go for $5 to $10, but figure I will catch up on my sleep in the room for a couple of days, and the guide book suggests to splurge, while adapting to the culture shock of Bangkok.) They call the Prince hotel to reserve my room. They tell me it will be 300 Baht ($8) by taxi to get to the room. I go to the tourist information desk again and ask if I can take the train. The man also suggests a taxi for 300 Baht. I wander toward the taxi station. I hear "Sir, Sir" from people who want to make transportation arrangements for me (at a premium) and I keep walking toward the taxi stand. (My guidebook has told me that "Sir, Sir" will soon sound annoying, from all of the Thais who want to sell things.)
Then, a lady tells me, "600 Baht." I ignore her and make a special effort to get away from her. She follows and explains that I need to come back to the booth and finish up the paperwork and pay the deposit on my room for tonight. I apologize for walking away from her. I have become overwhelmed trying to negotiate the room, change money and arrange transportation.
I get in the taxi. The driver says 400 Baht ($10.50). I say that it should be 300 Baht. He says "300 Baht, okay." Then we agree to 400 Baht, including tolls. The toll is 20 Baht. So, I gave the taxi driver an extra $2, which is not my biggest concern.
I am still wearing my leather jacket, with airline tickets and travelers checks in the pockets. Bangkok is hot and humid. I am pleased that the taxi is air conditioned. The Prince is a nice hotel. A porter brings my bags to my room and turns on the room's air conditioner.
The next morning, I walk toward the train station. Actually, I walk the wrong direction, but I find a train station, nonetheless. I go toward the city center looking for "Toon Travel", which was recommended to me, as a place to arrange a Laos to Viet Nam to Cambodia trek. I have lost the Toon Travel business card. There is no way that I will find this place.
I buy lots of liquids at the 7-11's in order to replace the gallon or so of sweat that I lose each day to the heat. I find good American book stores. I find shirts. I see condos under construction, next to the US Embassy, beginning at $110,000. I am still lost, but am adapting. I worry about how much the Prince will charge me, as I have given them the only receipt I have for the 600 Baht down payment. I mentally do currency exchange calculations, though I had no reason to worry. The final bill is clear and exactly what I was told it would be.
The Rose Hotel is four or five blocks closer to the train station than the Prince. Taxis honk at me, and I even speak with a driver. But, I can transport my bags, this short distance, without their help. The 450 Baht ($12) Rose Hotel has air conditioning, refrigerator, cable, a good full sized bed.
Food has been excellent and inexpensive-- Thai, Arab, even Korean. I still haven't figured out laundry.
I desperately need a foot massage and a hair cut. First, my hair is trimmed for 100 Baht plus tip. (It is trimmed just enough so that I notice.) Later, a masseuse gives me a foot massage for 250 Baht plus tip. The masseuse removes the thorn from the lion's paw, and all becomes right with my world.
I arrive in Bangkok, not having planned where I will stay. This is a problem, as my entry form requires an address. The person behind the passport counter frowns and I ask where I should stay and what I should write. I don't understand her answer and she spells out "ROYAL" on a piece of paper.
At the airport, at the tourist information desk, I pick up pamphlets and maps and ask again where I should reserve a room. They send me one booth over. I say that I want to spend $20 per night on a room and to stay for two nights. (I've heard that good rooms go for $5 to $10, but figure I will catch up on my sleep in the room for a couple of days, and the guide book suggests to splurge, while adapting to the culture shock of Bangkok.) They call the Prince hotel to reserve my room. They tell me it will be 300 Baht ($8) by taxi to get to the room. I go to the tourist information desk again and ask if I can take the train. The man also suggests a taxi for 300 Baht. I wander toward the taxi station. I hear "Sir, Sir" from people who want to make transportation arrangements for me (at a premium) and I keep walking toward the taxi stand. (My guidebook has told me that "Sir, Sir" will soon sound annoying, from all of the Thais who want to sell things.)
Then, a lady tells me, "600 Baht." I ignore her and make a special effort to get away from her. She follows and explains that I need to come back to the booth and finish up the paperwork and pay the deposit on my room for tonight. I apologize for walking away from her. I have become overwhelmed trying to negotiate the room, change money and arrange transportation.
I get in the taxi. The driver says 400 Baht ($10.50). I say that it should be 300 Baht. He says "300 Baht, okay." Then we agree to 400 Baht, including tolls. The toll is 20 Baht. So, I gave the taxi driver an extra $2, which is not my biggest concern.
I am still wearing my leather jacket, with airline tickets and travelers checks in the pockets. Bangkok is hot and humid. I am pleased that the taxi is air conditioned. The Prince is a nice hotel. A porter brings my bags to my room and turns on the room's air conditioner.
The next morning, I walk toward the train station. Actually, I walk the wrong direction, but I find a train station, nonetheless. I go toward the city center looking for "Toon Travel", which was recommended to me, as a place to arrange a Laos to Viet Nam to Cambodia trek. I have lost the Toon Travel business card. There is no way that I will find this place.
I buy lots of liquids at the 7-11's in order to replace the gallon or so of sweat that I lose each day to the heat. I find good American book stores. I find shirts. I see condos under construction, next to the US Embassy, beginning at $110,000. I am still lost, but am adapting. I worry about how much the Prince will charge me, as I have given them the only receipt I have for the 600 Baht down payment. I mentally do currency exchange calculations, though I had no reason to worry. The final bill is clear and exactly what I was told it would be.
The Rose Hotel is four or five blocks closer to the train station than the Prince. Taxis honk at me, and I even speak with a driver. But, I can transport my bags, this short distance, without their help. The 450 Baht ($12) Rose Hotel has air conditioning, refrigerator, cable, a good full sized bed.
Food has been excellent and inexpensive-- Thai, Arab, even Korean. I still haven't figured out laundry.
I desperately need a foot massage and a hair cut. First, my hair is trimmed for 100 Baht plus tip. (It is trimmed just enough so that I notice.) Later, a masseuse gives me a foot massage for 250 Baht plus tip. The masseuse removes the thorn from the lion's paw, and all becomes right with my world.
Labels: travel
posted by David Rasmussen at 10:47 PM
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