Thursday, March 31, 2005

Taxi Ride to Khaosan

I discover newer, nice guest houses available near the Khaosan backpacker's area, and decide to try one.

When my dad shows up later this month, he should stay in a central area, in a nicer place. Also, the logistics of getting to and from the airport are easier in this part of town, more geared to tourists. Laundry and the Internet are less expensive here. Finally, storage of bags, while I visit Laos, Viet Nam and Angkor Wat of Cambodia, is more convenient. I ask the lady at the desk, "Is there an express bus from Nana Nua to here?" As if I am very slow, she replies, "Take a taxi."

So, I check out of the Rose Inn and try to get change for my 1000 Baht bill. I will need this change to pay for a taxi, which will cost 200 Baht. She has no change.

When I first arrived at Bangkok, disoriented, late in the evening, I had to take a taxi from the airport to the Prince hotel. Though the price should have been 320 Baht, I negotiated 400 Baht, felt cheated and never dealt with any more taxis. Now, I am concerned that I will have to deal with a taxi driver who will not change my 1000 Baht bill.

I get in the metered taxi outside the hotel, show him the business card of the guest house (with directions in Thai), and off we go. Though I do not know the route well, I know that crossing a river would be wrong. We do not cross any rivers, and instead drive by familiar Sky Train stations. I feel we are going the correct direction. The meter has ticked from 35 to 51 Baht. The driver looks at the directions on the business card again.

Traffic is arduous, with long waits at lights. We continue to head west. The meter slowly ticks to 71 Baht. The driver stares off into space. After honks from those behind us, the driver notices that the light has changed. He shifts gears, and off we go, again.

We are starting to hit the central area. The air-conditioner feels good. I think we are near the pier, next to the Golden Mount. Then, we head right into the Khaosan Road area, jammed with tourists, and back out again. It feels like we might be starting to circle. The driver turns on Thai music. I notice the built-in stereo system and try to figure out if our Nissan taxi includes a standard CD player.

We re-enter heavy traffic, then we turn onto a road with less traffic. Finally, we head into an alley, pulling off to one side to let a hand truck pass. We reach the end of the alley and turn back. (The driver explains that it is a one way alley, and that we were going the wrong direction.) The meter ticks to 101 (less than $3), and we stop in front of the hotel.

I curse myself one final time for only having 1000's and for not having the correct change. Considering the amount of time we spent at traffic lights, I suppose the taxi driver should not mind a short wait, while I get change at the desk. Then, I open my wallet, where a 100 Baht bill magically appears. I also give the taxi driver all of my change, 28 Baht. Then, I find another 5 Baht coin in my other pocket and give him that, too. I feel he deserves more.

When my Dad arrives, we might as well take taxis. They are cool and inexpensive (especially for two or more), assuming you have the correct change.

I have changed my mind about taxis. However, the three wheeled motorcycle taxis, called tuk tuks, are still menaces.


When I checked out the Wild Orchid, I liked that it was clean, new and freshly painted. (The Rose Inn closet unit had about a year of dust on top of it. Also, water, from each shower from the room above, dripped through the ceiling, past the sink, into the floor drain.)

Wild Orchid bathrooms are located on the balconies, with shower curtains for privacy. In the tropics, taking a shower outdoors seems right! (The Rose Inn bathroom was plenty functional, complete with a sink sprayer nozzle Bidet. After staying at the Rose for a week, I asked how to turn on a second device, manufactured by Sharp, that provides hot shower water. It is simple-- just push up. In the 90 degree climate, though, taking cold showers does not feel so bad. In my first Bangkok hotel, the Prince, I actually could never get the shower water to be cool enough!)

My Wild Orchid room does not have TV, though I will get a room with a TV when my dad arrives. The Rose Inn provides cable, with CNN, MTV, Cinemax, Discovery, a Sports Channel and a variety of non-English stations. However, these stations do not broadcast the same programming as they do in America. CNN often originates from Hong Kong or London. MTV often plays Asian or American hits. Cinemax shows primarily action movies. Discovery is in English, but subtitled. Sports usually means cricket. They constantly hype "The Apprentice" and "Wrestlemania 21", which I am sure I do not get. I also will not see Kofi Annan's next press conference in its entirety; I will survive.

I miss the Rose Inn refrigerator, and also miss the temptation to allow Thai locals into my room. The Wild Orchid has a sign saying, "NO! Thai peoples in guestrooms," while at the Rose Inn, "All Thai guests must leave ID at front desk."

I pay 600 Baht ($16) per night, which is very much on the high end, and very much in opposition to the backpacker's creed of paying less than the locals. The Rose was 450 Baht ($12). Non-air conditioned rooms in this area go for between 100 and 300 Baht.

I have visas for Laos, Viet Nam and Cambodia and plan to start this trip with an over-night second class sleeper car train trip to Laos, Friday night. After Viet Nam, I return from Cambodia on April 13.

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