Vientianes, Laos
With clothes, a mostly empty backpack, and everything else in storage, I boarded the train for Hang Khai, a border town to Laos. I had hoped for air conditioning, but those cars were sold out, so I settled for the top bunk in the second class sleeper section. The temperature hovered at 89 F throughout the night. The sun came early, and by about 6:30 am, I was looking out of the window at farmers in ones and twos, running roosters, Bhrama bulls on leashes, tiny plots of farm land, and occasional bonfires.
At 8:40 a.m., I arrived at Hang Khai. Here, I became we. Noi, who is from both Laos and California, introduced herself as we exited the train, then escorted me across the border. First, we took the tuk-tuk from the train station to the Friendship Bridge. Then, exited customs. Then, we took a bus. Then, we formally entered Laos. From there, we took a taxi into Vientianes where Noi set me up at a guest house. We arrived at 10:15 a.m. This would not have been possible except that Noi expressed us through. (The tourists are still lost in the lines.) Noi gave me her number and wants to go dancing.
I was planning on going a little further North today. But, I would rather know someone than not, even if Vietianes is a lot like Bangkok per Toon, the travel agent. Actually, my main goal for today is to take it easy. Since I am already settled this morning, today's mission is accomplished.
4 p.m.
The Guest House is the nicest so far. I'll get use out of it, as I think it is time for an afternoon nap. The Indian food down the street is great.
7 p.m.
I go to a restaurant and order Lab on sticky rice, which is a just slightly familiar taste. Maybe, I had something similar when I was twelve. The Lao beer is also good. From the restaurant, I call Noi, who motorcycles over. She tells me she doesn't like the restaurant, so we walk to a fountain. I learn that Noi married a 52 year old retired American serviceman, who does not support her, but her three year old boy has American citizenship. Noi has been to fourty of the fifty states and spent extensive time in Michigan. While in the United States, she made $850 per month, which I calculate to minimum wage, but which she considers big money, since there is no money in Laos. Her visa situation lapsed, so she returned here. She says she will return to the United States in 2008 (maybe get married).
10 p.m.
We cycle over to meet Jai (rhymes with Tie), who seems to be Noi's boyfriend. He or his employee is finishing up massaging a young European tourist with dreadlocks, who does not want to leave.
11 p.m.
We cycle to the dancing place. So, I see mostly young Lao people, but also see occasional 60 year old Caucasians, to let me know that this is Tourist Central. After an hour or two of beats and whistles, we go to the bowling alley, with an entourage of three other smiling Hmong men, who I recognize as people who work at, or who hang out at the guest house.
2 a.m.
I throw four consecutive shots at the six pin. Then, I notice the clock and understand why I have lost the ability to bowl.
2:30 a.m.
I am dropped off at the Guest House. Jai and Noi knock on the windows to wake up the attendant.
Result: I have failed miserably at my goal of relaxing. However, meeting people is more important than seeing places, so today was therefore good.
Tomorrow, Noi says I need to visit a scenic island.
Day 2
I eat more excellent Indian food. At 5 p.m., I walk downstairs looking at the strip of paper with Noi's phone number. Noi, who is sitting behind the counter of the guesthouse sees me do this and demands to see the number. She tells me she wants to meet for Korean barbeque at 8. I tell her that I am leaving in the morning, so I would like to see the scenic island. She makes 15 cell phone calls and comes back with her cycle.
We go north of town over a tie bridge to a beach along the Mekong river. 100 or 200 people are relaxing next to the river or across some water on island. A dozen or two dozen people are crossing the waist deep water. Noi tells me that we got here and hour late and can't cross now, because it will be dark when we return. Noi tells me she was 13 when she was in the USA. (This means that the California ID, with the Montclair. CA address, is forged.) Noi drops me off and goes elsewhere. I walk to the Express Bus station and order my ticket to Luang Prabang. Then, I enjoy a quiet dinner of kabobs, by candlelight, next to the river. Then, I go to the Internet Cafe where they always overcharge you by 25% because you arrived 15 minutes before you arrived-- more friends of Noi, I believe.
Once past the incessant whiz of Vientaines cycles, the nine hour bus trip to Luang Prabang is actually very nice. The final seven hours are like a trip through Yosemite, with wonderful views of peaks, often obscured by clouds. We watch music videos the whole time. I recognize nothing at all for the eight hours between Richard Marx(?) "Whenever" and "Me and You and a Dog Named Boo" by Lobo
(or maybe by Nitty Gritty Dirt Band), even though an entire CD of American music videos from 1996 are included. It is nice to be on the Express bus rather than the standard "tourist bus" option.
Sadly, now that I am here, I need to think about where I am going next. But, this IS the kind of beautiful place from where you send a wish you were here postcard.
Luang Prabang is smaller, so instead of the swarms of cycles next to the hive, the only noise pollution is buzzing bees. And, here, unlike Bangkok or Vientaines, the air is breathable. My guesthouse is a three star hotel. The lap(yesterday it was called lab) is tasty. The Luang Prabang salad is very tasty.
Next Day
I walk along the river to where the Nam and Mekong meet. I stop at a Buddhist temple. I wander onto a porch where a group of schoolage girls are eating and ask for a menu. There is no menu, so I have Noodle and Fish egg soup. They also bring a pineapple fruit shake. It is a good lunch. Cost: 7000 kip (70 cents). I accidentally walk to the Express bus station. My bus will leave tomorrow at 10 a.m. Then, to be a tourist, I charter a boat for an hour on the river. Cost: $8 plus tip. Finally, I meet Ian, a Telecom employee from New Zealand, and we discuss Zen and the art of Motorcycle Maintenance.
At 8:40 a.m., I arrived at Hang Khai. Here, I became we. Noi, who is from both Laos and California, introduced herself as we exited the train, then escorted me across the border. First, we took the tuk-tuk from the train station to the Friendship Bridge. Then, exited customs. Then, we took a bus. Then, we formally entered Laos. From there, we took a taxi into Vientianes where Noi set me up at a guest house. We arrived at 10:15 a.m. This would not have been possible except that Noi expressed us through. (The tourists are still lost in the lines.) Noi gave me her number and wants to go dancing.
I was planning on going a little further North today. But, I would rather know someone than not, even if Vietianes is a lot like Bangkok per Toon, the travel agent. Actually, my main goal for today is to take it easy. Since I am already settled this morning, today's mission is accomplished.
4 p.m.
The Guest House is the nicest so far. I'll get use out of it, as I think it is time for an afternoon nap. The Indian food down the street is great.
7 p.m.
I go to a restaurant and order Lab on sticky rice, which is a just slightly familiar taste. Maybe, I had something similar when I was twelve. The Lao beer is also good. From the restaurant, I call Noi, who motorcycles over. She tells me she doesn't like the restaurant, so we walk to a fountain. I learn that Noi married a 52 year old retired American serviceman, who does not support her, but her three year old boy has American citizenship. Noi has been to fourty of the fifty states and spent extensive time in Michigan. While in the United States, she made $850 per month, which I calculate to minimum wage, but which she considers big money, since there is no money in Laos. Her visa situation lapsed, so she returned here. She says she will return to the United States in 2008 (maybe get married).
10 p.m.
We cycle over to meet Jai (rhymes with Tie), who seems to be Noi's boyfriend. He or his employee is finishing up massaging a young European tourist with dreadlocks, who does not want to leave.
11 p.m.
We cycle to the dancing place. So, I see mostly young Lao people, but also see occasional 60 year old Caucasians, to let me know that this is Tourist Central. After an hour or two of beats and whistles, we go to the bowling alley, with an entourage of three other smiling Hmong men, who I recognize as people who work at, or who hang out at the guest house.
2 a.m.
I throw four consecutive shots at the six pin. Then, I notice the clock and understand why I have lost the ability to bowl.
2:30 a.m.
I am dropped off at the Guest House. Jai and Noi knock on the windows to wake up the attendant.
Result: I have failed miserably at my goal of relaxing. However, meeting people is more important than seeing places, so today was therefore good.
Tomorrow, Noi says I need to visit a scenic island.
Day 2
I eat more excellent Indian food. At 5 p.m., I walk downstairs looking at the strip of paper with Noi's phone number. Noi, who is sitting behind the counter of the guesthouse sees me do this and demands to see the number. She tells me she wants to meet for Korean barbeque at 8. I tell her that I am leaving in the morning, so I would like to see the scenic island. She makes 15 cell phone calls and comes back with her cycle.
We go north of town over a tie bridge to a beach along the Mekong river. 100 or 200 people are relaxing next to the river or across some water on island. A dozen or two dozen people are crossing the waist deep water. Noi tells me that we got here and hour late and can't cross now, because it will be dark when we return. Noi tells me she was 13 when she was in the USA. (This means that the California ID, with the Montclair. CA address, is forged.) Noi drops me off and goes elsewhere. I walk to the Express Bus station and order my ticket to Luang Prabang. Then, I enjoy a quiet dinner of kabobs, by candlelight, next to the river. Then, I go to the Internet Cafe where they always overcharge you by 25% because you arrived 15 minutes before you arrived-- more friends of Noi, I believe.
Once past the incessant whiz of Vientaines cycles, the nine hour bus trip to Luang Prabang is actually very nice. The final seven hours are like a trip through Yosemite, with wonderful views of peaks, often obscured by clouds. We watch music videos the whole time. I recognize nothing at all for the eight hours between Richard Marx(?) "Whenever" and "Me and You and a Dog Named Boo" by Lobo
(or maybe by Nitty Gritty Dirt Band), even though an entire CD of American music videos from 1996 are included. It is nice to be on the Express bus rather than the standard "tourist bus" option.
Sadly, now that I am here, I need to think about where I am going next. But, this IS the kind of beautiful place from where you send a wish you were here postcard.
Luang Prabang is smaller, so instead of the swarms of cycles next to the hive, the only noise pollution is buzzing bees. And, here, unlike Bangkok or Vientaines, the air is breathable. My guesthouse is a three star hotel. The lap(yesterday it was called lab) is tasty. The Luang Prabang salad is very tasty.
Next Day
I walk along the river to where the Nam and Mekong meet. I stop at a Buddhist temple. I wander onto a porch where a group of schoolage girls are eating and ask for a menu. There is no menu, so I have Noodle and Fish egg soup. They also bring a pineapple fruit shake. It is a good lunch. Cost: 7000 kip (70 cents). I accidentally walk to the Express bus station. My bus will leave tomorrow at 10 a.m. Then, to be a tourist, I charter a boat for an hour on the river. Cost: $8 plus tip. Finally, I meet Ian, a Telecom employee from New Zealand, and we discuss Zen and the art of Motorcycle Maintenance.
Labels: travel
posted by David Rasmussen at 12:32 PM
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